It is quite usual that people’s mind can only see what it is prepared to see. The brain has to use existing patterns and catchments. When they believe that they are analysing data, actually they are only trying out their existing ideas to see which one might fit. If their existing ideas are not rich then their analysis will be inadequate.
Therefore, if the data / knowledge does not exist in their mind, then whatever I say is redundant. As a serious music listener, I probably wanted to share something useful and important to them, but eventually I might end up more like a hard-sell Hi-Fi reseller.
Nowadays I only talk about Hi-Fi with audiophiles as I know the comminication is not going to work if someone is not willing to learn. Music and the quality of sound is hard to be expressed by words. Inviting those who are interested for an audition could be the most effective way to make them agree with how a good Hi-Fi systems can make wonder ! In life we don’t really afford to share a lot of things with others, music could be the only thing that can be shared affordlesssly.
A) ACCURACY
Music listeners vary in their approach to Hi-Fi. Frankly, you are able to appreciate any amazing musical artistry without knowing the skill of playing any kind of musical instrument. There is one thing for sure, you can’t hear music in your head when you look at a series of notes on a musical stave. You need a good hi-fi to make it come to life, I mean really come to life. A great system gets you closer to that musical event. What we want from a Hi-Fi is an idea which is simple, yet very hard to acheive - The Accuracy of the music. The idea refers to the direction of a Music Producer, his professionalism of directing or making an album should be in high regard. We are not possible to sit beside him in the studio and listen the “original sound” produced by him. So that we need a good Hi-Fi to bring us to the scene.
Some Hi-Fi manufaturers liked to profess their products were able to enhance the quality of a CD or an album. This claim was very absurb indeed. In another words, they though all the music productions were not good enough so that they have changed them into a different dimension. It is not likely, you can only remaster an album in a studio not through a Hi-Fi. Probably their only intention was to generate more sales. I am more than happy if my Hi-Fi can generate the sound as accurate as possible to the standard of the studios. I don’t expect anything different from the studio’s effort as it is not original anymore. So the sole mission for the Hi-Fi manufacturers is still loud and clear - To produce Accuracy.
B) HI-FI & IGNORANCE
Ignorance of Hi-Fi is widespread. Everytime when someone mentioned that they had recently got a new “Hi-Fi System”, I knew that 90% of the so called “system” refered to Integrated Hi-Fi or Home Theater System. Only stereo equipment that met the standard of DIN 45500 (Deutsches Institut für Normung or in english - The German Institute for Standardization) could bear the words Hi-Fi. This standard was disregarded by many manufacturers with strong monetary marketing orientation. The term was widely misapplied by them to their audio products that did not qualify the DIN specifications. I hate to perceive that many listeners did not care about those details are ignorant because people just don’t see the need of owning or learning something when they do not even know the existance of the product / knowledge. Eventhough you have seen a “Real Hi-Fi”, but you are not able to feel the need if you have not experienced it before.
Anything relates to music is frequently misunderstood by the people, including Hi-Fi. Most of us thought we knew music since we were a baby, telling your friend that he/she is not having a good taste in music is offensive most of the time. Believe me it is similar to criticizing someone is having an awful taste in fashion right, you are inviting “inconveniences” to yourself.
In music scene, Rock & Metal developed gradually and constantly over these 40 years, from a simple Rock form to a complicated Progressive Metal and Black Metal. Sound systems evolve too but the direction is more to a commercial approach. Many marketing strategies actually were deliberately designed to confuse the public. Many different categories of products’ names / terms were resemble each other. People usually are confused about Hi-Fi, Integrated Hi-Fi and Home Theater System, many of them are music lovers. More than half of these group of people think that Hi-Fi, integrated Hi-Fi and Home Theater System are basically having the same functions. They thought Hi-Fi was considered as obsolete stuff, integrated Hi-Fi is the improved version of Hi-Fi and Home Theater System is the most advanced equipment as there are five speakers and look powerful and advanced in technology as the speakers are generally smaller.
Many of them even give the “Real Hi-Fi” a reason to live, when they were asked : “If you think Hi-Fi is outdated then why are they still available in the market ?” Their typical answer is :“The older generation like it”. I don’t call this ignorant as we can not learn everthing in our life but if you address yourself a music lovers than you have to explore everything which is related to music.
C) OTHER MISCONCEPTIONS
i) A RICH MEN‘S TOY
Traditionally, Hi-Fi has been regarded as rich men’s toy. Therefore, the real meanings and hardships of many excellant sound engineers weregr eatly overshadowed. Probably it’s true that the main purpose of some rich people to buy an expensive Hi-Fi is to show off their wealth, the more expensive the better. Still there are some percentage of rich men buying Hi-Fi for the sake of technical realization. No matter what are their motives, we still have to positively agree with their monetary contributions, without their contribution, the Hi-Fi industry can hardly go on with its expensive product research and manufacturing cost. There are still many cheaper range of Hi-Fi components cater for people with limited resources.
ii) HI-FI SPECIALIST
The dividing line between a Hi-Fi specialist and a Hi-Fi shop retail assistant is thin. Most of us have the following experience; when we walk in an electronic shop for a TV. A shop assistant will persuade you to buy a 5.1 to match your new TV (actually it is a Home Theather System. There are 5 speakers, two front speakers, 2 back speakers and a subwoofer to create a surround sound effects). Some immoral shop assistants will tell you that it is under a good promotion almost the same price as a Hi-Fi system (actually is an Integrated Hi-Fi) but you got 5 speakers compare to Hi-Fi (you will only get two). 99% of people who are lacking in Hi-Fi knowlege will take the “Big Offer”. The end result, indeed, you will be happy enjoying your surround sound Rock & Metal with a lot of “emptiness & spacious effects” until one day you find out there are some equipments more suitable for music.
iii) SELF MISLEADING
There was a time, I drove my friend back home and I was playing a Hard Rock album in my car. He liked the album very much, therefore I gave the CD to him as a gift. I told him my car audio was very average, it sounded a lot better if it was played with a Hi-Fi. He told me that he got a new Hi-Fi few months ago. I knew that it was my another opportunity to do my “Hi-Fi research”. I tried to test him (of course he did not know I was testing him) by asking him : “So, is there an amplifier ?” He told me: “Yes, it is a 5.1 Hi-Fi”. I asked again: “Are you sure 5.1 is good for music ?”. He sounded a bit offensive and protective, he answered: “Of course, I just bought it not long ago.”. I didn’t want to elaborate much as I didn’t want to hurt his feeling. This is a very common case, the result is always under my expectation.
D) HI-FI vs INTEGRATED HI-FI
This is not a guilde book about Hi-Fi. I don’t want to spend too much time to explain the technical details. My pirority here is to explain why should you listen Rock & Metal with a Hi-Fi, and also trying my best to rectify the misconceptions about Hi-Fi in some people’s mind.
i) INTEGRATED HI-FI
also known as Mini Hi-Fi or Modular Hi-Fi.
- It contains two sets of systems, set A come with many functions under one box, such as a CD player, cassette deck, tuner, built-in pre-amplifier, and set B is a pair of speakers.
- Full set of system is manufactured by the same manufacturer.
- It is available at almost all the electrical shops and department stores.
- Most of the brands are in the £120 - £500 price range. Generally speaking, integrated Hi-Fi is about 60% - 80% cheaper than a lower range Hi-Fi.
- Integrated Hi-Fi always come with a lot of fancy features such as 6 CD racks player, pre-set music modes, extra-bass setting, surrround sound etc.
ii) HI-FI
also known as High Fidelity.
- The components are separated into 3 sets, namely a CD player, amplifier and a pair of loudspeakers.
- Usually each item came from a different manufacturer specialising in the particular component.
- You only are able to get these components in Hi-Fi specialist shops as you need a Hi-Fi specialist to make combination according to your needs.
- There are really a lot of brands compare to Integrated Hi-Fi, could be more than 200 brands due to its prestigious history in the industry. The price for a 3 pcs set of Hi-Fi cost around £1,000 - £100,000.
- Hi-Fi does not come with fancy features. What Hi-Fi engineers / sound experts wanted to achieve was delivering the most accurate sound details to you but not adding extra effects by pressing those pre-set sound effect buttons in order to modify the sound according to your personal preferences.
In the 80’s, Japanese electronics companies had become leaders in manufacturing Integrated Hi-Fi, which flooded in the market due to its cheap price and mass production. In the meantime, Hi-Fi was traditional ruled by European manufacturers. The confrontation has been quite similar to what happened in watch industry. You can get a very detailed and superb workmanship of mechanical watch at £100,000 /=, and you may also get a Casio G-Shock at £30 /=.
E) COMPARISIONS
Which type of system is better ? The answer varies with listeners’ living styles. Different groups of products cater for different groups of listeners. If you seldom be at home then a good Hi-Fi is redundant to you. If you spend most of your day time driving from one place to another, then a good car audio is crucial to you. If you rely on public transport very much or you like to travel a lot, quality of sound is not a key factor to you then an ipod is a good choice.
Hi-Fi is meant for serious listeners / audiophiles. They are avid music lovers who enhance their audio equipments through listening to music at its very best quality level, which mean playing great recordings through Hi-Fi to achieve the most outstanding results.
Integrated Hi-Fi is meant for casual listeners. Therefore, it has performance limitations. The style of playing and the sound produced are totally different from a Hi-Fi. Home Theater System caters for dialogue and some very short sound effects in a movie in order to generate the spacious and surround sound effect, it is not a good option for playing music.
Obviously, ipod is not a compact size of a Hi-Fi. Hi-Fi manufacturers are not dumb to keep on producing cumbersome CD players and amplifiers as a lot of details in music can not be compromised, the size can not be reduced for the sake of convenient. Those details in music are exactly what serious listeners are looking for.
F) DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung e.V.)
DIN is considered one of the earliest Germany’s ISO member body. The organisation mainly deals with standardization in technology industry. Different Hi-Fi specifications were named under different codes (mostly serial numbers are in sequent), such as DIN 45500-1 to DIN 45500-10 (I believe the recent codes have been changed, and they are not group in sequent numbers anymore. You may check their website for details).
Due to the aggressive competitions of sound system market in the 90’s. Integrated Hi-Fi manufacturers also named their product as “Hi-Fi” with the word “Mini” to be put in front of “Hi-Fi”. This may be viewed as a deceptive marketing ploy. Integrated Hi-Fi was successfully grabbing a big portion in the market-share by making people believed that they had successfully reduced the cumbersome 3pcs Hi-Fi components into a lightweight Integrated Hi-Fi format, and claimed the quality was equally good as Hi-Fi. Furthermore, the price of integrated Hi-Fi was very much cheaper. The situation is very much similar to CD albums compare to Downloading songs today. Do you still believe in lossless format as claimed ?
These Standardization Organizations failed to stop integrated Hi-Fi manufactureres’ action above mentioned. Eventually, these standards became valueless. A lot of manufacturers did not want to be restricted by DIN quality control anymore. Especially a lot of independent Hi-Fi manufacturers were not comfortable with the controls and standards as they were in smaller business size, their production cost was more expensive than those bigger manufacturers. If there is one or two specifications always can not get through the testing, then they might be in trouble, indirectly prolong the process might cause the production cost to be increased very much.
Nowadays, there are many organisations deal with standardization in Hi-Fi in many countries. To be frank, a lot of them are very commercial (you know what I mean). A lot of good brands are not necessary have an ISO certificate to prove their standard as the reasons I have told you earlier. Nevertheless, if you buy a set of speakers, amplifier or CD player that cost you more than £ 3,000 (for each item), then it is still considered a good effort and guarantee if a manufacturer could provide a certificate issue by a renowned Standadization Organization.
I have seen a lot of expensive (over £ 3,000 for each component) and fancy looking Hi-Fis, many of them were having formidable wrong settings. To me those products are defective and useless if you bring them back home. Some fancy designs are made to attract ignorant buyers.
G) CABLE & TYRE
There are many readers always like to write in to Hi-Fi magazins and criticizing cable as a passive device which can not amplify anything, and also pinpointing the claims, such as the effect of the cables made by manufacturers are sheer exaggeration. They are deluded is difficult to justify ?
Magazine editors always like to provide readers some typical answers such as “Since Mr. ABC installed cable XYZ, he was rewarded with a vast improvement in every aspect of the sound, It was clearer, with deeper bass, a better projected mid band, and smoother and higher treble. The greater cable length also allowed him to put the speakers on stands in a bigger room and further apart”. This kind of answer is so general, sounds like a sales talk, it even can be used for answering other questions about other audio components.
I have two set of labtop cables, one is original and the other one is compatible. one set is always in my office and the other one is always in my briefcase with my labtop for my working mobility. Normally I liked to use the built-in battery out of laziness. I will use the cable only when the battery is about to empty. When I plug in the cable, the screen would immediately became brighter compares to battery. If I used the compatible cable the screen brightness would change again. The time spent for saving a file and log off time also showed differences. This small discovery refuted some people thought that cable generated 0% help in sound system.
Theoretically, Hi-Fi is only able to use 1% of the current for audio, the rest of the current would be transformed as heat. It showed that different quantity and quality of electricity actually affected the operation of electrical components. Let alone Hi-Fi is far more exquisite and sensitive than a labtop. It was also proven that cable can attenuate an audio frequency signal. Thus a cable may remove the excessive or unwanted disturbances from a system. I have every reason to believe that the influence of a good cable is much more greater than what we can imagine.
Now we know the influence of a cable is not zero, but the problem is how do we prove that how much is the actual percentage in difference ? Frankly speaking, it is not that easy. You have to be very familiar with an album (not your Hi-Fi system). You have played the album probably more than 50 times with your Hi-Fi, you also have to know how the pitches sound in every songs. The familiarity is similar to my labtop and I, I have been using the same labtop for 5 years therefore I will notice immediately if there is a slight change in any specifications. Then the next step is asking your Hi-Fi shop to deliver the cable to your house for testing. This is a must as you can not bring the album mentioned to the shop and ask the Hi-Fi specialists to use their Hi-Fi system to do the testing, unless they have exactly the models you have in your house, or else it will not be accurate. By the way, I don’t think many Hi-Fi shops will deliver the cable to your house and let you do the testing.
Buying cables is more or less the same as buying tyres. As we mentioned before, many people reluctant to admit the improvements of the tyres (cables) over a car (Hi-Fi) as according to their explaination, tyres (cables) is passive they can not generate (amplify) power. If you drive a normal saloon car, the car rims are in 15” come with normal tyres. Tyre shop mechanic would ask you to “upgrade” them to 17“ rims with four extra soft and thin sport tyres.
I must agree that is called “upgrading”. The mechanic did not tell lie but he was scheming, he did not tell you the consequences - Upgrading is not better, it can become worst !
i) Tyres: If you drive that normal saloon car, your car is not going to make a full use of those high-end tyres.
Cables: If you are using a lower range Hi-Fi don’t even waste time thinking about using expensive cable, you are wasting money. If you would like to save money I would advise you to keep the cables as short as possible, using flat telephone extension cable for all interconnects other than the very low level moving coil to phono amp cable. Replace the ring circuit by using heavy duty cooker cable. this has resulted in a noticeable improvement.
ii) Tyres: Sport tyres are extremely good on racing circuit, but not for the streets. If the road conditions are not that good, your are probably not driving a car but riding a horse. Those so called improvement specifications such as bigger rims, bigger and thinner tyres will make you suffer, if other parts in your car do not support those alien new comers.
Cables - There are many hi-end floorstanding Hi-Fi which cost more than £100,000/=. If money is such an easy thing to you, then you should get a hi-end cable, there is hi-end cable selling at £ 1,500 per meter. Surely the Hi-Fi above said are ready to deliver the ultra sensitivities by the high end cables as the components are much more accurate and details than a lower range of Hi-Fi.
If you don’t mind a cable can only produce 5% - 10% difference for your Hi-Fi system then you can buy it happily at retail shop without any burden. If you think every single cent counts, your expectation is much more higher, says 20% - 30% then you have to undergo the testings above mentioned.
H) SPACE
In Hi-Fi there is no so called sound unit to measure the approximate amount of sound volumn needed to cover your living room. Hi-Fi specialists and engineers expect listeners and audiophilles to sit facing to the speakers, at least 6 feet away from the speakers and the distance between two speakers are about 4-6 feets while listening to the music (like the way you watch TV), but not playing music with your Hi-Fi in the living room at the same time do your cooking in the kitchen.
Generally speaking, do not place a Hi-Fi in your bedroom, study room or any small room. If your living room is below 200sqf, you may consider an integrated Hi-Fi. If your living room is above 250 sqf, then you may start considering a Hi-Fi components and bookself loudspeakers. Bookself loudspeakers are nicely built and finished small speakers, making them an excellent size for small space. Eventhough your living room is more than 600sqf, you always following the rule sitting in front of the speakers and you seldom invite friends to your house for audition, I strongly advise you to go for Bookself Speakers too.
Whereas if your house is big, isolated, not immediate attached to your neigbours then Floorstanding Speakers are highly recommended. Floorstanding Speakers come with more drivers which can analyse music in details. Turn the loudspeaker as loud as possible, If you don’t turn it loud, you don’t feel the punch so you are not possible to appreciate the “Details in the Loudness”, moreover you are wasting sound engineer‘s effort. Buying a pair of high-end loudspeakers for loudness comes with details, as details in the loudness brings hearing pleasure.
I) THE MAIN HI-FI COMPONENTS
How to get the best out of high resolution Hi-Fi ? I believe this is the question that has bothered you and many others for some time. The most difficult parts about Hi-Fi are the confusions and wrong directions above said. Now it’s time to deal with more easier parts - How to choose a Hi-Fi ?
i) CD PLAYER
Again, many people always neglect the great importance of CD Player. They even happily using normal CD Player to match their good quality loudspeakers and amplifier for years before realizing their mistake.
CD Player is the gateway to good quality of sound. Imaging there are tons of money notes are flying around you. If you have a bigger net then you are able to catch more notes per second. If your CD Player is not good enough to analyse the details of an album, lets say only able to acheive 60% of the full details, then your amplifier and loudspeakers will only do its’ own parts of jobs - Receive and process this 60% of the data from the CD player.
Do not buy CD Player, Amplifier and Loudspeakers at one go. The correct way is to buy a CD Player first and buy Loudspeakers and Amplifier together some other time. Always buy a CD Player with headphone and earphone connection in order to test how good is a CD player immediately. A good CD Player must be able to produce the detailed textures, meaning many layerings are produced in various “distance”. You are able to recognize the drums,cymbals, guitars, vocals and other instruments are actually “not mixed up together” as a lump.
If you are a serious Rock & Metal listener then you have to get a good CD player. It is not that expensive, you can get a good quality budget range of CD player at £300. There are still many brands do not provide a headphone/ earphone connection point, no reason was given by those manufacturers. Probably there are two explainations for this, either too confident about their products or too scare to expose their weaknesses. Getting familiar and understand your CD Player for months before proceeding to the next step - Getting a pair of loudspeakers and an amplifier.
I always put my CD Player on the side-table next to sofa, which means not together with the amplifier and loudspeakers as when I want to play it loud, I could use headphone in order not to disturb the surroundings. Listening to the sound that has not been processed by amplifier and loudspeakers is another kind of enjoyment. CD player is the most user friendly audio component, it is not complicated and technical as Loudspeakers and Amplifier.
ii) LOUDSPEAKERS
Loudspeakers and amplifier have to be bought together as they have close links in many aspects. Amplifier has to deliver “Electrical Power” and “Sensitivity“ to the loudspeakers which is measured in watts (W). A higher capability of amplifier can deliver a better quality of effect to loudspeakers. All amplifiers produce high temperature, if that heat is generated too fast, temperatures will rise high enough to damage components. This is always not an easy task to solve, so don’t be surprise if there are two componets are in the same size but the prices are very much different. No doubt standing loudspeakers has to use a much better amplifier as the reasons above mentioned. Although most loudspeakers are in fact capable of withstanding their peak power acceptance and amplifier's maximum power output rating was twice the loudspeaker's continuous rating. But it is better that you don’t take the risk as your speakers are not cheap after all.
Speakers used in Hi-Fi are called Loudspeakers, as the speakers can withstand stronger pressure and workload generated by an amplifier. In short, they are much more louder and detailed compare to usual types of speakers without using an amplifier.
There are two types of Loudspeakers, namely Bookself Speakers and Floodstanding Speakers. Some Hi-Fi manufacturers also produce 2 way Surround Speakers, which is similar to home theather system. The exterior design cound be exactly the same but usually 30% - 40% smaller than a Bookself Speakers in size. The price is about 40% - 50% cheaper. If you are very much concern about the sound quality then do not buy that. Sometimes 2 ways surround speakers are available at normal electrical shops and you might be misleaded by shop assistant.
Bookself Speakers are about 1 1/2 feet tall, having the same size as Intrigrated Hi-Fi speakers, nevertheless, do not judge them as the same thing. Standing speakers are very much taller than a bookself type, their width varies but the height are generally about 4-5 feet tall. Loudspeakers remain little changed as the technology is quite mature nowadays. It delivers fine results for little outlay, just £300/= Bookself Loudspeakers can give you a great audio quality.
Loudspeakers have individual drivers which produce different frequencies, they were installed in the same enclosure (cabinet / box) in order to reproduce a wide range of frequencies at the same time for maximum accuracy. Drivers (normally in round shape) which produce different frequencies (pitches) can be identified easily by our naked eyes from the exterior settings of a pair of loudspeakers.
Drivers are named :
1) Subwoofer * ( for ultra low frequencies )
2) Bass / Woofers ( for low frequencies )
3) Midrange ( for middle frequencies )
4) Tweeters ( for high frequencies )
5) Supertweeters ( for ultra high frequencies )
*subwoofer is a single driver normally enclosed in another seperated enclosure (cabinet / box).
There is no Midrange for midium-low range Loudspeakers, such as two-way (two driver) speakers. The task of reproducing the midrange falls upon the Bass and Tweeter. Normally, The higher range or more expensive range of Loudspeakers the more drivers
you will get, therefore the more frequencies can be produced. In short, the higher quality it is.
People always gain more impressions from the Loudspeakers as they are the final presenter. There are definitely some general rules to judge the final result / presentation. Remember You have to bring three CD which are in different pitch along if you are trying to do some audio testings in a Hi-Fi specialist shop, such as Rush - Moving Picture (high pitch), Anathema- Judgement (medium pitch) and Swallow The Sun - Tomorrow Never Come (low pitch).
iii) AMPLIFIER
Typical loads used in Loudspeakers are 4 to 16 ohms per channel (Note: They should be understood to be the maximum power, but not the minimum power). If an amplifier specifies 8 ohms loads, care should be taken that loudspeakers with a lower impedance are not used. Using a 4 ohm loudspeaker system on an amplifier specifying 8 ohms or greater could lead to amplifier failure.
Choose a pair of Loudspeakers that work for you and then find an amplifier to match the Loudspeakers (not the other way round). Amplifier delivers Electrical Power and Sensitivity to a loudspeaker, measured in watts(W). For each 3 db gain by doubles.
42dB is 16W,
45dB is 32W,
48dB is 64W,
51dB is 128W,
54dB is 256W,
57dB is 512W,
60dB is 1024W etc.
If you compare two amplifiers, the amplifier with higher dB or W setting is more sensitive.
You may test how a Hi-Fi works on Treble & Bass by adjusting the control knobs on the Amplifier. This is crucial as different albums come with different key and pitches. Every Loudspeakers need fine tuning to improve the sound quality, do not leave your Treble & bass knobs idle. Eventhough Loudspeakers are the final presenter of the sound quality. However, amplifier is the component to decide if the loudspeakers are able to deliver the results.
iv) TREBLE
Firstly, testing the Treble. A good Hi-Fi must be able to reduce distortions effectively, as a result offering smooth, accurate sound. Giving vocals a clear and solid presence. Treble representation must be even and silky smooth. The treble must definitely be fronted with a obvious brightness.
Treble must be in superlaive balance, smooth and nicely detailed in order to handle voice brilliantly. When a pitch goes very high, towards the top end , it should sound as thin as possible and grating. The thinner is the sound the higher is the quality, but make sure the sound will no turn into “sharp distortion” that discomfort your ears. Trying to differentiate “Thinness and Sharpness” is important, they are totally two different things. Balance in Treble is extremely important as it deals with vocals and melody a lot. Ribbon Tweeters in some Hi-Fi brands give deliciously treble known for sounding fast yet clean, which is good for pop music and opera, but not really a good option for Rock & Metal. Do not choose Loudspeakers come with Ribbon Tweeters especially if you often listen to Rock & Metal.
v) BASS
For medium and low end Hi-Fi, the Bass and Midrange are always link together. A big speaker always give more bass than a small one, small loudspeakers need more power to go loud than big ones. Bass must be in great depth, it must give enough body / weight to proceedings, but not overwhiming and make sound become muddy. In another words, the textures of percussion, choir, voice have to be vivid, you can see deep into the mix, so the bass conveys weight, warmth and punch. Bass also has to be tight and there was no sign of boxiness (empty effect) or any other colour.
When a pitch goes very low, the sound should not be muddy, sometimes it may become inaudible. Bass of a loudspeaker delivers layering effects and textures of rhythm from your CD Player. No matter how low the bass is, a good pair of loudspeakers have to make Bass sounds heavy but clear. Please bear in mind “Heaviness and Muddiness” are not the same thing.
K) HOW TO READ SPECIFICATIONS LABEL
No music producer will produce an album that allow vocals and instruments become a lump of work in a studio. When it comes into
the later stage- reproduction (preserve studio sound in a CD format) then it could be hard to guarantee. In the 80’s, Death metal and Black metal were actually not the genres that were suitable for listeners, especially youngters were listening with radio in cassette format. Radio with cassette deck was not able to process those heavy rhythm and ultra bass vocals.
At that time, ultra low vocals, strong bass guitar and heavy drums always having a clash when you listened with radio. Nowadays, sound system has been improved a lot but when you choose a Hi-Fi, you still have to make sure high or low pitch of rhythm must not clash with vocals. I rather you lay your trust more to the producers and yourself rather than Hi-Fi.
In another words, if any sound problem occurs, do not think that it is caused by a CD. The posibility of causing such problem by a low quality Hi-Fi is greater than a CD. Do not proceed your purchase if you have listened any “strange and uncomfortable pitches”, as I assumed all music producers were professionally selected. The chances to produce something discomfort to listeners are quite low.
i) CROSSOVER FREQUENCY
When multiple drivers are used in a system, a "Filter Network" which is called a Crossover separates the incoming signal into different frequency ranges and routes them to the appropriate drivers. Usually corssover frequency rate does not contribute much to the quality of sound. You can ignore this specification as which is not generally justified by better acoustic performance.
ii) FREQUENCY RESPONSE / BANDWIDTH
The range of human hearing sound frequencies from about 20Hz to 20,000Hz (20kHz). An amplifier’s performance is defined in every change in increasing (+) or decreasing (-) in 3dB. If the change is less than 3db then the difference of sound usually can not be detected by human hearing sense.
iii) SENSITIVITY SPL/M
Sensitivity ratings to Efficiency or Loudness. Every 1M (meter) of distance from a loudspeaker in 2.83 V (standard voltage) produces how many dB (decibels). Generally speaking, the figure of sensitivity refers to a fixed reception area- When you are sitting in front of the loudspeakers and the sound output in one straight direction. Typical home loudspeakers have sensitivities of about 85 to 95 dB. Usually the higher dB rating it is, the lesser power needed for an amplifiers.
iv) IMPEDANCE
Units of watt (W) are indicated at the back label on an Amplifier, showing the Electrical Power are able to be conducted by an amplifier.
Units of ohms (Ω) are indicated at the back label on a Loudspeaker, showing that the Resistance of the Loudspeaker. The resistance device inside the loudspeaker helps protecting electrical power overly flow in from the amplifier.
by Metal Child Media
Typical loudspeakers have impedance ratings of 4Ω, 8Ω or 16Ω. The higher the ohm, the more resistance are the loudspeakers. In another words, the less Electrical Power can be accepted from an amplifier. Or you may say, the less powerful is the Loudspeaker. On the contrary, the lower the ohm, the less resistance, the higher Electrical Power can be accepted from an amplifier, the more powerful is the Loudspeaker.
Typical loudspeakers have impedance ratings of 4Ω, 8Ω or 16Ω. The higher the ohm, the more resistance are the loudspeakers. In another words, the less Electrical Power can be accepted from an amplifier. Or you may say, the less powerful is the Loudspeaker. On the contrary, the lower the ohm, the less resistance, the higher Electrical Power can be accepted from an amplifier, the more powerful is the Loudspeaker.
The impedance which is measured in ohms (Ω) of your loudspeakers have to match your amplifier’s output (W). There are few examples below showing you the good and bad outcomes :
iv/a) Loudspeaker (4Ω) + Amplifier (100W@8Ω) :
The Amplifier can conduct 100W of power to the loudspeaker at 8Ω of resistance. In this case, the loudspeaker’s resistance is lower by half (4Ω) compares the actual requirement (8Ω) by the amplifier, then the Master (the loudspeaker) will command the Servant (the amplifier) to supply additional electrical power to fill up the “demand” which is not be able to manage by the amplifier. This could cause damage to the amplifier.
iv/b) Loudspeaker (8Ω) + Amplifier (100W@4Ω) :
The Amplifier can conduct 100W of power to the Loudspeaker at 4Ω of resistance. Under this situation, the loudspeaker’s resistance is double (8Ω) compares the actual requirement (4Ω) by the Amplifier. Obviously the Amplifier with 100W@4Ω is weaker than the loudspeakers, the additional resistance come from the Loudspeaker will affect the power flow/ output from the amplifier resulted in less powerful sound quality.
iv/c) Loudspeaker (8Ω) + Amplifier (100W@8Ω)
The best setup therefore is for the loudspeaker to have an ohm rating equal to the ohm rating of the amplifier. Besides matching the ohm setting, you also have to check what is the highest watt that the Loudspeaker can withstand. Normally the higher the watt the more powerful it is. I noticed that some did not clearly indicated the specifications at the back of the components, in that case you have to check carefully with your Hi-Fi specialist.
